Mike Dunne's Wine of the Week: 2008 California Pinot Noir
Bogle Vineyards 2008 California Pinot Noir ($11)
Pinot noir's rise to popularity and prominence in California began about a decade ago, though not until the release of the movie "Sideways" in 2004 did it get the traction it retains today. Before then, pinot noir even from regions now esteemed for the grape was relatively easy to find and to afford.
Thus, Bogle Vineyards of Clarksburg, best known for solidly made and attractively priced everyday petite sirah, chardonnay and merlot out of the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta, quietly began to release small lots of pinot noir from Sonoma County.
Over the past several vintages, Bogle's pinot-noir output grew to some 44,000 cases, all of it bearing the name of arguably the state's most highly regarded appellation for the varietal, Russian River Valley. No other winery in the country is believed to have made more pinot noir with "Russian River Valley" on the label than Bogle.
With the current release of its 2008 pinot noir, however, Bogle has traded in the Russian River Valley appellation for the broader "California" of most of its wines. That's the price of success, given that the Bogles wanted to continue to increase their pinot-noir production but were faced with limited sources and escalating prices in Russian River Valley. (In addition to dropping Russian River Valley from the label, the Bogles have dropped the suggested retail price, from $13 for the 2007 to $11 for the 2008.)
Nevertheless, most of the fruit that went into the 2008 pinot noir - 60 percent - is from Russian River Valley. The rest comes from Monterey (27 percent) and Santa Barbara (10 percent), areas also recognized for fine pinot noir. Just three percent of the wine is from Clarksburg, and it isn't even pinot noir, but chardonnay, a rare touch added by Bogle winemaker Chris Smith to heighten the wine's aromatics, a practice he started several vintages ago.
The result is a pinot noir of charming delicacy and subtle complexity, yet true to type, from its light and bright blue-tinged garnet to its gentle suggestions of chalk dust, spice and mint in smell and flavor, all playing respectful backup to the wine's clean berry and cherry fruitiness. The wine is everything an everyday pinot noir should be - fresh and spry, with the varietal's telltale suppleness. Its spine is solid, traces of its year in French and American oak more caress than slug. A pinot noir of this caliber at this price is a major accomplishment, but not at all a surprise from Bogle, which from the outset has focused on making wines that balance high quality with high value.
Indeed, Smith suggests that the 2008, even without the Russian River Valley appellation, is an improvement over earlier vintages. On its own, pinot noir from the Russian River Valley can be almost too intense, probably because of new and improved clones of the variety that have been planted in the region. By tempering that forcefulness with more moderate fruit he's crafted a finely harmonious pinot noir.
By the numbers: 14.2 percent alcohol, 55,000 cases, $11.
Context: Smith says he's enjoyed the pinot noir with mesquite-smoked wild turkey stuffed with lemons, braised pork shoulder and grilled salmon. The Bogles suggest it be poured with "aged cheeses and unique pates, saucy mushroom dishes, poultry and pork," but don't prepare and serve any of those dishes with a lot of fussiness and weight; this pinot noir will be best with lighter representatives of those genres.
Availability: Bogle wines are widely available in the Sacramento area, with Nugget Markets especially keen on the new pinot noir.
More information: Check the winery's Web site, www.boglewinery.com, or visit its tasting room, 37883 Road 144, Clarksburg, open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.