Mike Dunne's Wine of the Week: 2008 Sierra Foothills Barbera
I'm getting pretty excited about the first Barbera Festival coming up June 11 in Amador County's Shenandoah Valley. Fittingly, it will be on Dick Cooper's ranch, the source of so much highly acclaimed barbera.
The last time I looked, more than 80 wineries were lined up to introduce or re-introduce wine enthusiasts to barbera. Most are from the Sierra foothills, where barbera more than any other grape is showing that zinfandel isn't the only major player in the region.
Although most of the participating wineries are in the Mother Lode, several will be from regions where barbera also is generating buzz, including Sonoma County, Lake County and Paso Robles.
Nevertheless, one of the more satisfying barberas I've tasted in recent months, and one from the immediate area, won't be poured at the festivities. Brothers Matthew and Newell Hatcher of Hatcher Winery in Calaveras County would like to be joining the festival, but they'd already committed themselves elsewhere when the date was set. Thus, anyone who doesn't get their fill of barbera at the Cooper spread will need to drive an hour south to Murphys in Calaveras County, home to Hatcher Winery.
Founded in 2002, Hatcher draws grapes from throughout the Sierra foothills for a lineup of wines that runs strongly to the sort of hearty varietals that best represent the Gold Country's sunny slopes and torrid temperatures: zinfandel, petite sirah, mourvèdre and grenache.
During our visit to Hatcher, one of about two dozen winery tasting rooms along or near Main Street in Murphys, we were especially impressed by the unusually refined yet frisky 2007 zinfandel, the concentrated and spicy 2007 mourvèdre, the lush and balanced 2007 petite sirah and the 2006 Sewell, an aromatic and complex proprietary blend of Rhône Valley grape varieties.
But the Hatcher Winery's 2008 Sierra Foothills Barbera was the wine over which we lingered the longest. If I recall correctly, we even asked for a second taste. Barbera is a red wine that should be snappy with refreshing acidity, and the Hatcher has just that sort of invigorating tang. Beyond that, it's a medium-bodied wine with supple tannins, a sunny fruitiness suggestive of blueberries, and a brushstroke of French oak held respectfully in check, not at all upstaging the fruit.
The grapes that went into the wine were purchased off a vineyard owned by Hank Battjes near Coloma in El Dorado County and from Dick Cooper's spread in Amador County. The Battjes fruit, which accounted for about 60 percent of the blend, was largely responsible for the barbera's forward fruitiness and seam of minerality, while the 40 percent from Cooper added complexity, said Matt Hatcher.
The 2008 growing season in the Sierra foothills was distinguished by a relatively dry winter followed by a severe spring frost that reduced yields by more than 40 percent in some vineyards. The following summer, however, was dry and hot, leading to an early harvest and to grapes fully ripe, with little bunch rot and mildew to interfere with flavors bright and fresh.
Hatcher Winery
2008 Sierra Foothills Barbera
By the numbers: 14.6 percent alcohol, 600 cases, $24
Context: Sewell Hatcher says he enjoys the barbera with "cannelloni, lasagna, or gourmet pizza, and, of course, Giants baseball." The cannelloni consists of savory crepes stuffed with sweet Italian sausage, spinach, pine nuts and Parmigiano, all finished with a marinara based on San Marzano tomatoes.
Availability: The barbera is available only at the tasting room, 425 Main St., Murphys, open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursday through Monday. Other Hatcher wines, however, are distributed widely through the foothills, including grocery stores, wine shops and restaurants.
Barbera Festival
WHAT: Enjoy wine tasting, musical entertainment and art, crafts and specialty-food sales. Restaurants such as Bocconato Trattoria, Tuli Bistro and Taste will be providing food at an additional charge. Proceeds go to the Community Foundation of Amador County, which helps support several charitable programs and services.
WHEN: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. June 11
WHERE: Dick Cooper's ranch, 21365 Shenandoah School Road, in Plymouth
COST: $30 in advance, $40 at the gate (Food and other items will be sold.)
INFORMATION: www.barberafestival.com